Ford Bronco And F-150 Links

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FORD BRONCO -> DRIVELINE; axles, bearings, differentials, gears, re-gearing, LOCKING HUBS, 8 lug swaps, U joints -> Locking Hubs

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Automatic

General Information

Manual

Vibration or Noise When Driving In 4X2 Mode W/ Hubs Locked (Replace the front Driveshaft) TSB 97-13-22 for 87-96 Bronco & 87-97 F Series

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"...Manual Hub - The t-case disconnects the front driveshaft from the transmission, and the hubs disconnect the axleshafts from the wheels. The driveshaft is ALWAYS connected to the diff & axleshafts. Depending on how tight your diff is, both axleshafts MAY turn when you turn the d'shaft while BOTH hubs are unlocked, but at least one of them has to no matter what. If the d-shaft won't turn with both front wheels off the ground (or the hub locks removed), then the t-case is still in 4. If either axleshaft won't turn with its hub UNlocked AND the t-case in 2 or N, then that hub is stuck locked. I suspect you'll find some carmelized grease, and some surface rust on the lock rings, and probably a spring or 2 heavily rusted, to the point that they're ruined. But that's just a guess. Take both hub locks OUT of the hubs, and then roll the truck a little. You don't need to remove the tires, or even jack the front end up since the locks don't bear ANY weight. If the d'shaft still turns, the problem is in your t-case....."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB

"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
Source: by Warn®

Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ Auto & Manual Locking Hubs & BoM; 6 MB PDF see page 121
Source: by www2.dana.com

Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at FSB

Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at broncozone.com

Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance..."
Source: by Warn®