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"...The t-case disconnects the front driveshaft from the transmission, and the hubs disconnect the axleshafts from the wheels. The driveshaft is ALWAYS connected to the diff & axleshafts. Depending on how tight your diff is, both axleshafts MAY turn when you turn the d'shaft while BOTH hubs are unlocked, but at least one of them has to no matter what. If the d-shaft won't turn with both front wheels off the ground (or the hub locks removed), then the t-case is still in 4. If either axleshaft won't turn with its hub UNlocked AND the t-case in 2 or N, then that hub is stuck locked. I suspect you'll find some carmelized grease, and some surface rust on the lock rings, and probably a spring or 2 heavily rusted, to the point that they're ruined. But that's just a guess. Take both hub locks OUT of the hubs, and then roll the truck a little. You don't need to remove the tires, or even jack the front end up since the locks don't bear ANY weight. If the d'shaft still turns, the problem is in your t-case....."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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"...Manual Hub OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS: ONLY use fingers to turn dials. DO NOT USE PLIERS. Set the hublock dials to “FREE” and transfer case to 2-high for all driving that does not require four wheel drive. To engage four wheel drive set the hublock dials to “LOCK” and set the transfer case to 4-high or 4-low. Return the transfer case to 2-high before disengaging hublocks. Do not drive on hard surface roads in 4-wheel rive because it can cause drive train damage. Do not move the vehicle if the hubs are anywhere between “FREE” and “LOCK” or it will damage the hublocks. Driving with only one hublock engaged can cause drive train damage. Driving with the hublocks in ”FREE’’ and transfer case in 4-low can cause drive train damage. To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
Source: by Warn®
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hub Knuckle Out Conversion Kit pic (a product); "...RECOMMEND ALSO REPLACING AXLE PIVOT BUSHINGS!!..."; miesk5 NOTE; year range is incorrect
Source: by broncograveyard.com
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hub Knuckle Out Conversion to Warn® 6 Screw Premium Manual hubs Info & pics in an 88
Source: by Eric D (Beast, B-Man) at SuperMotors.net
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hub Locks Inoperative TSB 88-08-17 for 87 to Early 88 Bronco & F 150
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hub Parts Break-Out Diagram: "...used only on 87-early 88 F150s & Broncos w/manual locks. 87-88 w/auto locks are "normal". These are similar to those used on Bronco IIs & Explorers, but larger (5 on 5.5")..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hub pic (a product)
Source: by broncograveyard.com
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hub pics; "...Flange-style Hub Locks, a.k.a. Top Hats; Note the LACK of screws around the selector dial. ..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hub; "...You need either ~$600 in flange hub locks, or ~$700 in conversion parts & several hours' labor to convert your front end to the "standard" locks, OR you need a good used axle complete with normal locks which can be had for ~$200 & can be installed in a couple of hours in your driveway. If you get an axle that uses the same style calipers as your truck ('85-94), you won't even have to open the brake lines. Note that '87-early 88 with AUTO hubs use normal locks..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at FSB
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87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat) Hubs are different than other Broncos; "...This was another of Ford's better ideas. For 87 and early 88 Ford used a one-piece locking hub assembly. This hub simply sits between the wheel and brake rotor and is held in place by the wheel studs. This type of hub is very easy to remove (simply remove the wheel), but it is different from all other Broncos and therefore parts and replacement hubs are expensive and hard to find. To convert your 87-88 Bronco to the "standard" hubs you'll need to swap all the parts from the spindle out from a Bronco or F-150. It may even be possible to take these parts from any vehicle with a Dana 44 front axle and the same wheel bolt pattern as the Bronco (5 on 5.5"). If you are considering this swap it would be a good time to consider the 8 lug axle swap you've always wanted (see section 10.2)..."
Source: by Matt K at off-road.com via web.archive.org
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Assembly, Warn® Premium in a 96 (has t-bird calipers); has Correct Torque Specs Bearing Adjustment - Tighten the inner lock nut to 50ft-lbs while rotating the rotor back and forth to seat the bearing. -Back the nut off about 45-degrees -install the lock washer, install the outer locknut and tighten to 150ft-lbs
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com
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Assembly, Warn® Premium in a 96 (has t-bird calipers); has Correct Torque Specs Bearing Adjustment - Tighten the inner lock nut to 50ft-lbs while rotating the rotor back and forth to seat the bearing. -Back the nut off about 45-degrees -install the lock washer, install the outer locknut and tighten to 150ft-lbs
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at FSB
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Assembly, Warn® Premium pics in a 96 (no torque specs)
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at SuperMotors.net
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Auto 3 Screw Parts Break-Out Diagram in 5/95-96; "...These use 3 washers (15,16,17) between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place. The previous design used a single thick splined shim. Before that, an outside snap-ring was used at the outer end of the axle stub..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ Auto & Manual Locking Hubs & BoM
Source: by Dana via rsgear.com
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Dana 44 Parts Break-Out Diagrams w/ Auto & Manual Locking Hubs & BoM; 6 MB PDF; see Page 122
Source: by www2.dana.com
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Dana Manual Hub Lok Service Manual; 1.5MB PDF
Source: by www2.dana.com
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Diagram; "...This diagram shows a common manual locking hub. Note that, to make the drawing easier, the axle tube (bright green) is shown inclined. But in actuality, it is perfectly horizontal, and the spindle & stub shaft (red) are angled slightly down. The axis of the ball joints (the centers of the balls; not necessarily the shafts) must pass through the center of the U-joint whenever the U-joint is rotating. That's why the location of the outer shaft (crimson) is critical, and the snap ring at its outboard end must be installed..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Dually Conversion to Regular Hubs from a 97 F350 Diesel Turbo Dually
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at FSB
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Dually Conversion to Regular Hubs from a 97 F350 Diesel Turbo Dually
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at 4x4preservation.com
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Dually Conversion to Regular Hubs pics from a 97 F350 Diesel Turbo Dually
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at SuperMotors.net
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Mile Marker 35 Spline pics in an 89
Source: by Andrew K (Andy351, das panzer, sloppy seconds, the magic carpet) at SuperMotors.net
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Mile Marker Hub Dial Tool pic
Source: by Milemarker via summitracing.com
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Mile Marker Product Review (for a GM, but applicable)
Source: by Tony S at 4x4review via web.archive.org
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Operational Test; "... (engine off, hubs disengaged), crawl under the truck with the transfer case in 2HI, you should be able to grab the front drive shaft and turn it by hand. Also with the hubs disengaged you should see the front axles turning freely. Now engage the hubs and you should not be able to turn the drive shaft by hand. Jack the front wheels off the ground with the hubs engaged, turn the drive shaft by hand, the wheels should turn. The 4x4 light should not be on in 2HI, when in 4LOW you may have a low range light on, (not all trucks have that light) at least mine doesn't..."
Source: by Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W) at broncozone.com
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Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance..."
Source: by Warn®
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Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance..." ; miesk5 NOTE; these instructions are similar to original Warn's, but diagrams are clearer
Source: by Warn® via streetsideauto.com
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Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at FSB
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pics & other internal parts in a 95
Source: by Shadofax (TheJuice, The Juice, Mark Z) at SuperMotors.net
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pics in a 92
Source: by Ganuus (Typhus) at SuperMotors.net
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Removal & Installation (Superwinch™ 6 screw) in a 78 (no torque specs for inner bearing adjustment, but what many use)
Source: by AKBearMoose (Mike M, old hoss, Iron Horse) at alaska4x4network.com
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Removal & Installation (Warn® 6 screw in a 90, part of his ball joint installation)
Source: by Iolaus (Jeff J) at FSB
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Removal & Installation (Warn® 6 screw, part of his brake job) in a 91 (no torque specs)
Source: by DcSkater602 (Steve) at FSB
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Removal & Installation (Warn® 6 screw, part of his brake job) in a 91 (no torque specs)
Source: by DcSkater602 (Steve) at SuperMotors.net
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Removal & Installation (Warn® 6 screw, part of his Dana 44 Axle Shaft U-joint Replacement) in a 78
Source: by Kevin K at fte
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Removal & Installation, Warn® 6 screw in a 90 (edited version; part of Jeff's Ball Joint R&R)
Source: by Iolaus (Jeff J) at FSB
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Removal & Installation; Factory (Warn®) 6 screw & 87 to Early 88 Flange Style (Top Hat), Factory EVTM Guide (Electrical, Vacuum & Troubleshooting)
Source: by Broncobill78 (Dave) at Bronco Zone Forums
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Removal (Mile Marker 6 screw, part of his Bearing Replacement, Wheel) pics in an 81 (no torque specs)
Source: by Big Mike C. (tainted love) at SuperMotors.net
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Removal (Mile Marker 6 screw, part of his Bearing Replacement, Wheel) pics in an 81) (see his SF site for pics) w/torques by Mike & Nobs
Source: by Big Mike C. (tainted love) at FSB
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Removal in a 92 (look in ball joint section)
Source: by Zach K (BurnedB, BurnedBronco, Badassbronco) at SuperMotors.net
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Replacement Info & pics, 6 screw to Warn® Premium in an 83
Source: by Michael C (collinsperformance, The Money Monster) at SuperMotors.net
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Replacement w/Mile Marker (6 screw) & tool list in an 86 (no torque specs)
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at SuperMotors.net
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Replacement, 6 screw to Warn® Premium (6 screw) pics in an 89 (no torque specs)
Source: by Andrew K (Andy351, das panzer, sloppy seconds, the magic carpet) at FSB
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Replacement, 6 screw to Warn® Premium (6 screw) pics in an 89 (no torque specs)
Source: by Andrew K (Andy351, das panzer, sloppy seconds, the magic carpet) at SuperMotors.net
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Warn® vs. Mile Marker Product Review (for a GM, but applicable)
Source: by Shawn S at off-road.com
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Warn® Mod & Installation in an 88 (must register to view)
Source: by Reptillikus (Project 4D2, Kevin W) at bucknakedoffroad.com
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Warn® Premium Parts pics
Source: by h8nlife (Ted W) at SuperMotors.net
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Warn® Standard & Premium Hub Instructions P/N 20990 P/N 9790 & Diagrams for DRIVE FLANGE, MANUAL HUBLOCK, AUTO
Source: by Warn®
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Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket Bushing Fabrication for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS; "...This spanner socket will start to slip off of the locking nut once you pass 100 ft lbs or so of torque. I even had someone else handling the torque wrench while I used both hands to hold the socket onto the nut. The torque action kept causing the socket to slip off and created lots of frustration for me. I needed a bushing of sorts to keep the socket square on the locking nut.." read more
Source: by Rough Rider (roughrider) at FSB
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Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket Bushing Fabrication for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS; "...This spanner socket will start to slip off of the locking nut once you pass 100 ft lbs or so of torque. I even had someone else handling the torque wrench while I used both hands to hold the socket onto the nut. The torque action kept causing the socket to slip off and created lots of frustration for me. I needed a bushing of sorts to keep the socket square on the locking nut.." read more
Source: by Rough Rider (roughrider) at SuperMotors.net
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Wheel Bearing Locknut Socket pic; "...The L spanner is stronger & less likely to slip off a nut, but it won't work on a self-locking nut..."
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wheel Bearing Locknut Torque Settings for 80-96 MANUAL HUBS, NOT Factory Auto Hubs; Ford Pickups and Bronco; "...Using a lockout spanner (Ford # T59T-1197-B or equivalent) and a torque wrench, tighten the inner bearing adjusting nut to 50 foot pounds while rotating the wheel back and forth and seating the bearing. Back off the adjusting nut approximately 45 degrees. Assemble the lock washer by turning the inner lockout to align the pin with the nearest hole in the lock washer. To lock it, install the outer lock nut and tighten it to 150 foot pounds. Grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. End play should be less than .006 – inch.).." Thanks to 90beater (Topher, Chris)!!!!
Source: by miesk5 at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
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