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FORD BRONCO
-> TROUBLESHOOTING; DTCs, no start/run, on-line Repair Manuals...
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WELCOME to MIESK5's BIG BRONCO LINKS
This is a Ford Bronco, Truck & Van Technical, Parts & Vehicle Classifieds LINKS site developed by the MIESK5 Family and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company in any manner.
Although we initially developed this site for 78-96 Big Broncos, information in many Links also applies to Ford Trucks, Vans & Cars.
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Bronco/Ford Truck
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General Information
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Repair Manuals, Vacuum & Wiring Diagrams
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Brake On-Off Switch, Brake Light & High Mounted Stop Lamp, Back- UP Lamp, License Lamp, Turn Signal, Daytime Running Lights Module, Head Light, Hazard, Trailer Marker Relay, etc. Wiring Diagram in 92-96 Bronco & F 150
Source: by seijirou at SuperMotors.net
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Diagnosis & Troubleshooting, Chapter 10, from Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
Source: by Charles O. Probst via yunost.ru
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Fuse E Blown, ABS Light On, Back-Up Lamps Inoperative, DRLs Inoperative, MIL On, Speedometer Inoperative TSB 95-02-11 for 92-95 Bronco & F Series
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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No Start Troubleshooting and Diagnostics, general
Source: by freeautomechanic.com
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No Start Troubleshooting in a 90; "...First thing to check is wiring. Between the large posts of your starter relay (it's not a solenoid) should be a smaller post with a wire attached. This is the wire from your ignition switch through the park/neutral safety switch (Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD) that turns the starter over. Check this wire for cracks, open insulation, or anything that could possibly cause an open circuit. Next, check your upper ignition actuator. Find the ignition rod (on top of the column, running from the steering wheel down to the ignition switch at the base of the column) and make sure it's moving back and forth when you turn the key, through all positions. If it is, your upper actuator is probably not the problem. Lastly, check your ignition switch (again, at the base of the column). Manually push the switch back and forth through the different positions. Push it all the way forward (or down) and see if it will engage the starter. If it does, then your ignition rod is probably bent, which can be remedied quite easily. & If it's an auto, try starting in neutral or while pulling up on the lever while it's in park. If that works, look to a park/neutral safety switch/MLPS. If it's a stick, check the clutch switch. You could try jumping from hot to the small terminal on the starter relay to test it's operation. Sometimes new ones are bad out of the box. If it won't turn over when jumped to the small terminal, you'll know that it's a starter relay issue (Bad part, bad ground; check to see if da relay is tight to inner fender with no corrosion because the relay's body is ground path via inner fender). If it does turns over jumped to the small terminal, then you'll be looking for something in the small circuit that includes the ignition switch & the park/neutral safety switch (NSS) Or clutch safety switch on a manual trans, or MLPS on a 90 with an E4OD. There should be 12v running from the ignition switch, thru the NSS/MLPS, to the small terminal on the starter relay. Disconnect the small wire to the starter relay (So it doesn't start by surprise, I'd pull the coil wire too). With someone holding the key in the start position, you should be able to read 12v between any point on that small circuit & ground. When you find where you lose 12v, then you'll know where the issue is..."; MIESK5 EDIT; changed a few terms; Also, see Starter (@) Relay Jumping Image in 92-96 @ http://www.broncolinks.com/gallery_images/StarterRelayJumpinin92-96.JPG - Sewiw shows a remote start switch's Jumpers; you can use a reg. small jumper wire
Source: by BigUgly88EB and ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong) at FSB
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Relay Test, Ford (Bosch Type); "...Fuel pump relay switches, and other relays are similar to the starter solinoid, in that they make a high amperage connection through a switched low amperage connection. There are two smaller connections, and two larger connections. TO test it, apply 12v to one of the smaller connections, and ground the other smaller connection. (I used to small aligator clipped jumper wries separated by a small piece of cardboard to keep them from shorting against each other.) You should hear it click. Then check for continuity between the two larger connections.Now remove the power from the smaller connections and recheck continuity between the larger connections.With power, one should have continuity, without power it should be an open circuit (no continuity)..."
Source: by Poppy at fordforumsonline.com
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Repair Locations Grid & Coding, Bronco; used to pin-point location of a repair or component in a vehicle
Source: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
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Wire Color Code Abbreviation Chart; see post #4; BK Black, BL Blue, BR Brown, DB Dark Blue, DG Dark Green, GN Green, GY Grey, LB Light Blue, LG Light Green, N Natural, O Orange, P Purple, PK Pink, R Red, T Tan, V Violet, W White, Y Yellow
Source: by miesk5 at FSB
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